160823 POP-UP BEIJING - HOKI Jewellery Miao

‘HOKI’ JEWELLERY @ POP-UP BEIJING ‘HOKI’系列首饰在POP-UP BEIJING上架啦!

“Almost always, the creative dedicated minority has made the world better.”

“总是那些兢兢业业、勤勉创造的少数人让这个世界变得更加美好。”

Martin Luther King, Jr.


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HOKI

160823 POP-UP BEIJING - HOKI Jewellery Miao 7This week we’re thrilled to bring you the next collection from HOKI! Starting earlier this month with vintage minority fabric collection, we now bring a finely curated collection of Miao jewellery.

Ranging from small rings and ear studs, to elaborate earrings and necklaces – POP-UP BEIJING is proud to work together with HOKI to bring the best of indigenous minority Chinese, hand-crafted jewellery to Beijing.

这一周,我们隆重为您介绍来自HOKI的另外一个系列!区别于上期介绍给大家的少数民族古典布料系列,这次为您带来的,是一整套来自苗族的手工首饰。

从精致小巧的戒指和耳钉,到细密复杂的耳环和项链 – POP-UP BEIJING非常荣幸能够和我们的好伙伴HOKI一起为大家带来这些中国西南部最优秀的少数民族手工珠宝系列。


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RINGS – 戒指

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Our first collection of HOKI rings are simple and beautiful gifts – with adaptable ring-size, so they can be adapted to fit anyone’s finger! In a range of sizes and designs, from the more subtle pastel colours, through bright and bold patterns, to more dark and sophisticated tones. Enjoy finding a piece that expresses your personality, or your mood for the day!

这次为大家带来的戒指是很好的小礼物 – 他们简单却精致,大小可调节,几乎适合所有人!每一个都有着不同的设计和刺绣:颜色和形状从柔和细腻、明亮精巧到宽广大气、淡雅和煦,一个个都代表着独一无二的美丽,总有一款符合您的气质,或一份别有的心情!

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BRACELETS – 手镯

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From fun and flirtatious bell bracelets, to the more elegant Songtao bracelets with exquisite Miao embroidery, we hold a wide range of different styles of bracelets from HOKI, including the most sophisticated pieces in pure silver.

从趣味横生的铃铛镯,到优雅精致的松桃苗绣镯,我们有一整套风格各异的HOKI手镯饰品:无论是简单大气还是精巧复杂,复合材质还是纯净银质,都在店里等待着您的甄选。

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PENDANTS – 垂饰

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The first pieces in our HOKI pendant collection include beautiful butterfly- and owl-shaped pieces, with rich embroidery and silver tassels that flash in the light. Gorgeous.

HOKI垂饰系列的第一期包含着许许多多少数民族经典图案:蝴蝶、猫头鹰。反复精美的异域图腾等等,无论是银雕还是刺绣,都一定能让您惊喜万分。


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EARRINGS – 耳饰

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From small and petite studs, to dramatic statements pieces, HOKI offers a wide range of Miao earrings that even includes some clip-on options for those without pierced ears.

从小巧精致的耳钉,到大气繁复的耳坠,HOKI为您准备了一系列来自不同部落、带着不同风格的苗族银饰,既有耳钩也有耳夹 – 满足您的不同需求。

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NECKBANDS – 颈环

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Some of the more traditional Miao pieces in the HOKI collection include these neckbands. Although they are normally worn without fabric, and often worn in multiple bands – to the Miao people, the more bands, the more beautiful!

颈环作为更加传统的苗饰也包含在HOKI的饰品系列之中。在苗族人民的传统习俗之中 – 如果哪家的姑娘颈环最多、最繁复,那她就是整个部落当之无愧的头牌花旦!


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HAIRPINS – 发簪

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Beautiful to touch and behold, these pieces can be used as intended – as hairpins – or alternatively as bookmarks or letter openers.

这些少数民族发簪美丽、掂实且用途多元 – 无论是用来装饰青丝,还是用作书签,亦或是开信刀,都是不错的选择。

 


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MORE ABOUT MIAO SILVER – 关于苗银

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Almost all jewellery from Yunnan is made from what is known as ‘Miao silver’ (苗银) – also known as ‘Yunnan silver’ (云南银). This alloy is traditionally made by Yunnan’s and Guizhou’s Miao People, and consists of between 30-60% silver, combined with copper and brass.

Traditionally, Miao people used to melt the silver they earned, and make jewellery out of it that they could wear. This would both keep it close to their bodies when they would migrate to other places, as well outwardly displaying their wealth.

This led to the more and more elaborate jewellery that has now been long part of the Miao tradition. The purity of the silver in the local currency has always been equivalent to the purity of silver in the jewellery produced in that area.

When a young woman marries into another family, the silver jewellery she is wearing on that day is also her dowry.

Not being pure silver makes the jewellery lighter and stronger, as the copper and brass that are mixed into the alloy strengthen silver, which is otherwise very soft. For the same reason, what we know as ‘Sterling Silver’ is 92.5% pure silver, traditionally strengthened by 7.5% of copper.

Please note that, as some people have a sensitivity to mixed metals, we also have some beautiful pure silver (999) Miao pieces – such as bracelets. We also have pure silver ear-hooks available for those who have such skin sensitivity.

几乎所有来自云南的首饰都是由‘苗银’(也称‘云南银’)打制而成。这种独特的合金最初由居住在云南和贵州的苗族人配比融合,大致成分为30-60%纯银加黄铜或者红铜。

传统上,苗族人把他们辛勤劳动换来的银子融化重塑,变成可以佩戴的首饰。对于经常迁徙又爱美的苗家人来说,这样既方便他们随身携带金银身家,又可以向人们展示他们超群的手艺和财富。

这样的习俗使得银饰作为苗家传统的一部分历史源远流长。由于每个地区、部落的组成和形式均略有差异,饰品的银金属含量也不尽相同 – 但大规则是:首饰的银含量需和当地货币的银含量相等,这样每一件饰品根据其重量的不同都可以当做货币来进行贸易交换。

当苗族姑娘出嫁时,她身上所佩戴的银饰也就相当于娘家人陪送的嫁妆。

以银融合铜的合金代替纯银让这些传统首饰更为轻便和结实。这和我们最为常见的925标准纯银(92.5%银与7.5%红铜合金)的功用非常相似。

如果您的皮肤对合金比较敏感,我们也有999纯银苗族饰品 – 比如手镯等等。同时,我们还为您准备了纯银替换耳钩,方便所有人都能够佩戴自己喜爱的器件。


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MORE ABOUT MIAO EMBROIDERY – 关于苗绣

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The embroidery on many of the pieces is also indigenous to the Miao people of Yunnan and Guizhou. Traditionally, Miao jewellery did not feature embroidery, but this became a way of selling pieces to people from outside of the culture, and has even now become more popular amongst some young Miao women.

Although some pieces are obvious – it isn’t always easy to tell whether the embroidery used is vintage or new, and made to look old. In reality – both have value, aesthetically and practically. The new pieces can be custom made for jewellery, and ensure that beautiful old garments are not being chopped-up into small pieces just to sell jewellery. Because Martin of HOKI works very closely with the women who produce and trade in this jewellery, he does his best to ensure that the old pieces used, are from fabrics that are unsalvageable as garments.

Perhaps one of the most interesting things about each piece of jewellery with fabric, is that the fabric represents a different style of embroidery, often from different sub-cultures or regions within the Miao people. We hope to bring you more about the different types, in future edits.

在HOKI系列首饰中所使用的绣片也都源于云南和贵州地区的土著苗族。传统上,苗族的首饰器件中并没有与绣片相融合。但是随着时间的推移,‘银绣相容’渐渐成为了一种风潮,这样打造的首饰不仅仅深受外来客人的赏识,在当地部落里年轻女孩中也深得喜爱。

首饰件中使用的绣片新旧不一,有时较难辨认。但无论如何,它们都是苗家人一针一线绣出来的佳作:精致、美丽、饱含着汗水和深情。这些专门为首饰而制的绣片一方面在造型和大小上更为适宜,另一方面有防止了大幅古典绣品的破坏和流失。HOKI的创始人Martin与许多当地的艺术家都有着非常紧密的合作关系 – 他在搜集这些美丽物件的同时,也常常帮助、指导当地人如何最大程度地保护和留存自己民族的灿烂文化。

关于这些绣品首饰最为迷人的地方便在于它们所表达的文化内涵 – 不同风格的绣片和首饰器型都代表着当地不同区域和部落的独特传统和习俗。在未来,POP-UP BEIJING和HOKI一起,会为您带来更多样式多元,讲述不同文化背景的精美饰件。


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